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Gemstones are objects which had interested human imagination for centuries. Their bright hues, elaborate cuts, as well as shimmering brilliance have made them coveted items in jewelry, art, and even in spiritual activities. Yet what makes a gemstone glitter? And what is underneath its smoothed skin? Knowledge of the anatomy of a gemstone is a requisite for any individual who wants to learn more about gemology, the design of jewels or just enjoys nature and its artistry.
Whether you are an inquisitive amateur or a young gem lover, this guide will take you through the basic elements of a gemstone, explaining how it affects its look and why this is important in determining quality and price.
A gemstone is, in its most basic form, a mineral or organic substance that has been cut and polished and used as an item of adornment. Although the vast majority of gemstones are minerals, created as a result of the geological process, there are organic ones, such as pearl stone and amber. The price of a gemstone is normally pegged on its beauty, durability and rarity.
Know more - Gemstone Vs Minerals & Crystals | The Difference
A gemstone is in the form of a rough crystal before it is cut and polished. The formation of this crystal takes place in nature in terms of heat, pressure and mineral structure. The structure of the atom inside the gem (called the crystal lattice) is what makes the gem hard or soft, or has an optical effect, or cleaves (breaks up).
Gemstones are grouped under various crystal systems, which include cubic, hexagonal, or orthorhombic. To exemplify, the cubic system (e.g., diamond) and the hexagonal system (e.g., quartz) are the reasons why these minerals are so hard, as well as why they are so clear and colourful, respectively.
The anatomy of a gemstone is even more complicated upon being cut. The process of creating flat surfaces (facets) on a gemstone so as to increase its brilliance and fire is known as faceting. The following are the most important aspects of a faceted gemstone:
It is not the brilliance of a gemstone that counts, but its cutting. The angles and proportions of the crown and pavilion are what control the light movement through the stone. The perfect ratios make sure that the light reaching the gemstone gets reflected inside it and leaves through the crown, resulting in maximized sparkling. Incorrect proportions may result in light leakage, giving it a dull or window look.
More to read - Different Types of Gemstone Cuts
The enchantment of a gemstone is in its relation with light:
Reflection: Reflection is the light bouncing off the surface. It is augmented by a fine cut of gemstone, whereby colors are more vivid.
Refraction: The bending of light on its entry into the gem. This property is captured by the refractive index (RI), with an increase in RI resulting in an increase in brilliance.
Fire: Breaking up of light into colors of the spectrum, i.e, the dispersion of light. Appear as rainbow colors, particularly in diamonds and other high-RI materials.
These effects can be enhanced by skilful cutting and polishing of a rough crystal into a stunning gem.
Gemstones have been traditionally classified in families, according to their chemical composition and crystal structure. These include:
Single Stones: Special or unique composition (e.g. Diamond, Peridot stone).
Varieties: Composed of the same material with a change in color (e.g., Beryl family has Emerald stone and Aquamarine).
The knowledge of these families assists in determining gemstones and their special characteristics.
Further reading - Gemstone Industry & Market Trends
All gemstones are not created equal:
Natural Gemstones: A result of geological or organic processes that take place over thousands of years.
Synthetic Gemstones: Artificial gems which has the same physical and chemical characteristics but are created in laboratories, by copying the same geological conditions by humans.
Simulants: Replicas that have varying characteristics (e.g., Cubic Zirconia was passed off as a diamond, but is a distinct chemical compound).
It is important to know the difference so as to judge authenticity and value.
In the case of jewelers, the anatomy of gemstones can be used to determine:
Setting: Its settings are prong, bezel, or tension settings, based on girdle thickness and culet shape.
Durability: Softer stones need protective settings.
Design aesthetics: Angles of the facet and the crown affect the visual attractiveness.
To the consumer, anatomy information will enable smarter buying, knowing good cut stones, bad cut gems and good workmanship.
Discover more - 7 Most Underrated Gemstones Used In Indian Jewellery
An anatomy of a gemstone is not merely a technical dissection, but a door into the art and science of nature, the most fascinating treasures. You are looking at a brilliant-cut diamond, or a deep-colored sapphire; either way, it adds more beauty and gives you a lot of confidence when you know what is on the inside.
Then the next time you are handling a gemstone, see past the glitter. Get a glimpse of the table, the crown, the pavilion. Consider the light flitting and curling in. And wonder how it went--through the centre of the earth To the brightness in your hand.
Get your perfect gemstone or gem jewelry now at Navratan, the online gem bazaar, where you can choose from our exclusive collection of authentic and lab-certified gemstones.
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