Through the centuries of jewellery-making, India has a rich tradition of combining art, spirituality, and symbolism in its jewellery-making. Although the diamonds, rubies, emerald stone and sapphires usually take the centre stage, there is a back story of gemstones which silently contribute depth, colour and meaning to Indian jewellery. These understated treasures have distinctive properties and strong symbolism, which is why they are suitable in both contemporary and classic designs.
We will discuss seven such gemstones that should be given more focus in the Indian jewellery scenario.
Tourmaline Stone is a very adaptable and diverse gemstone that comes in a variety of colours, but is still highly underutilised in mainstream Indian jewellery. The gem is found in a variety of colors, including darker greens, pinks and electric blues, and is commonly known as the "rainbow gemstone."
Tourmaline, used as jewellery in India, gives the more traditional designs an additional bright, modern edge. It is also said to possess good healing qualities, particularly in balancing chakras and guarding against negative energy. Pink tourmaline is a symbol of love and compassion, whereas green tourmaline is connected with prosperity and vitality.
Why it is underestimated: Tourmaline can be easily lost in the shadow of more traditional jewels such as emeralds and garnet stone , although the former is gorgeous and metaphysically attractive. However, its cheapness and variety of colors are a secret to designers and collectors.
Moonstone is a mystical charm that one cannot do away with. Moonstone, with its airy radiance, a phenomenon known as adularescence, seems to glow internally, and is therefore a popular choice with spiritual jewellery enthusiasts.
Moonstone is associated in Indian tradition with femininity, emotional equilibrium and intuition. It is commonly worn in jewellery, to meditate, heal and even perform fertility. Its milky look blends well with silver and rose gold, and it is perfect when restricted to minimalism and boho designs.
Why it is underestimated: Moonstone is sometimes not given the credit it deserves, as it is too subtle or delicate in relation to the more flashy gems. However, its subtle beauty and spiritual meaning make it a potent option when it comes to meaningful jewellery.
Agate is a type of chalcedony that is characterised by its beautiful, banded and natural colors. Every agate seems to be a miniaturised landscape, and its swirls, lines and strata narrate a geological tale that has taken millions of years to unfold.
Agate is worn in Indian jewellery in order to stay grounded and protected. It is considered to balance the mood and bring inner peace. It gives designers its natural beauty and versatility- it can be polished to a high shine or left rough to give it a rustic appearance.
Why it is underrated: Agate can be considered as one of the craft stones, not a luxury one. However, its interesting designs and spirituality put it on the radar of artisanal and statement jewellery.
Iolite is a violet-blue mineral that was formerly brought by Viking sailors with them to help them find the sun on misty days. It is increasingly used in the Indian jewellery market due to its similarity with sapphire, and at a very low price.
Iolite has a connection with vision, clarity and self-discovery. It is usually applied in religious jewellery and meditation instruments. Its rich and enchanting color is an added sophistication to rings, pendants and earrings.
Why it is undervalued: The name of Iolite is not well known and is easily confused with amethyst or sapphire. However, it is a clever substitute to those who want to look fancy yet not spend much money due to its exceptional optical qualities.
Carnelian is a hot stone that is orange-red in color and that has been found in Indian talismans and amulets since time immemorial. It is related to bravery, inspiration and innovation.
Carnelian gives a warming and lively touch in jewellery. It goes very well with gold and brass and is perfect in ethnic and tribal designs. It is also thought that carnelian activates the sacral chakra, which boosts passion and energy.
Why it is underestimated: Carnelian is frequently upstaged by ruby stone or garnets but, similarly to those, it is a more down-to-earth and reachable option with the same symbolic strength.
Labradorite is an iridescent, dark gemstone, which displays a display of blues, greens and golds depending on the angle in which it is viewed- a condition known as labradescence. It is commonly found in boho and handmade jewellery because of its mystical look.
Many Indian metaphysicals believe that labradorite is a stone of change and defense. It is said to increase intuition and protect the aura against adverse effects.
Why it is underestimated: The uncultured and rocky appearance of labradorite does not fit into the classic mould of Indian jewellery. It is an ideal choice.
Quartz is a very versatile and spiritually potent gemstone in Indian jewellery. Clear quartz enhances energy and will, rose quartz enhances love and has emotional healing properties, and smoky quartz provides grounding and protection. Its versatility, be it faceted, raw or carved, renders it ideal for both classic and contemporary designs.
Why it isn’t widely considered: Quartz is not as popular as the other stones and adds profound symbolism, healing powers, and immortal grace to any jewellery.
These seven under-appreciated stones, including Tourmaline, Moonstone, Agate, and others, provide a new palette of colours, meanings and energies that transcends the traditional. Be it a designer, a collector, or just a person who admires jewellery with a soul, the discovery of these unveiled treasures may lead an individual into a different realm of beauty and symbolism.
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